CT Bathroom Remodel Checklist: Budget, Permits, Materials

CT Bathroom Remodel Checklist: Budget, Permits, Materials

Bathrooms are the highest-use rooms in your home, and the trickiest to renovate. Tight spaces, plumbing, ventilation, waterproofing, and electrical all meet behind the tile. If you want a bathroom that looks beautiful for years and doesn’t leak, you need a plan that covers scope, budget, permits, materials, sequence, and quality control. This Connecticut-specific checklist walks you through the process step by step so you can remodel with confidence and avoid expensive redos.

Want a turnkey plan, transparent pricing, and a clean, code-compliant install? Explore Services, see what quality looks like in the Gallery, or request a free quote with Carpentry & Handyman Concepts (licensed & insured).

Section 1: Define Scope (and Your Why)

Pull-and-replace or re-layout? Clarifying this early sets the cost, timeline, and permit needs.

  • Pull-and-replace: Keep fixtures in the same spots. New vanity, toilet, tub/shower, tile, lighting, lowest complexity.
  • Re-layout: Move the shower, convert a tub to a walk-in, add a double vanity, and add more plumbing/electrical, with possible subfloor/framing work.
  • Expansion: Borrow closet space, annex a linen closet, or bump into a hallway, highest complexity, often structural.

Pro tip: If you’re staying in your home 5–10 years, plan for universal design (wider clearances, blocking for future grab bars, curbless/low-curb shower). It adds value and saves future remodel costs.

Section 2: Budget Ranges (CT Reality)

Every house is different, but here are typical Connecticut ballparks (labor + materials):

  • Cosmetic refresh: paint, hardware, minor plumbing fixture swaps: $3k–$10k
  • Pull-and-replace hall bath (5'×8') with mid-grade tile & vanity: $18k–$35k+
  • Primary bath re-layout with custom tile, glass, heated floor: $35k–$75k+
  • High-end primary (curbless shower, soaking tub, custom vanity, stone): $75k–$120k+

Cost drivers: tile complexity, waterproofing system, glass (fixed vs. hinged), custom vanities, stone tops, and fixture brands. We create a good/better/best estimate during your free quote so you can dial scope precisely.

Section 3: Permits & Inspections (Connecticut Basics)

Most CT towns require permits for moving plumbing/electrical, altering ventilation, or changing the structure.

  • Plumbing: new rough locations, shower conversions, or valve upgrades → permit + inspection.
  • Electrical: GFCI/AFCI protection, new lighting circuits, fan on separate switch/timer.
  • Mechanical: adequately sized bath fan ducted outdoors (not to attic), meeting code CFM.
  • Structural: moving walls, resizing windows, or changing joists/subfloor → structural review.

We coordinate with your GC and local building officials so timing & paperwork don’t stall progress. If you don’t have a GC, we’ll still help you navigate the process.

Section 4: Timeline (Realistic Sequence, 3–7 Weeks)

Week 0–2: Design & Ordering

  • Measurements, layout options, selections.
  • Order long-lead items: tile, glass, vanity, fan, fixtures, and waterproofing system.
  • Pull permits (if required).

Week 1: Prep & Demo

  • Site protection (plastic/zips, floor runners).
  • Demo to studs/subfloor as needed. Cap/secure plumbing & electrical.

Week 2: Rough-Ins & Framing

  • Reframe niches, pony walls, bench, and curb/curbless slope.
  • Plumbing rough for valve/heads/drain; electrical for lighting/fan/heated floor.

Week 3: Substrate & Waterproofing

  • Level/replace subfloor; set shower pan or mortar bed.
  • Cement board or foam board + seam treatment; full waterproofing (e.g., sheet membrane or liquid membrane) tied into the drain flange.
  • Flood test (24 hours) for curbless/low-curb showers.

Week 4: Tile & Grout

  • Walls first, then floors; proper expansion joints; movement joints at changes of plane caulked, not grouted.
  • Grout cure per manufacturer.

Week 5: Fixtures & Trim

  • Set vanity, top, faucet; install shower trim, toilet, accessories.
  • Electrical trim: lights, switches/dimmers, GFCI.
  • Fan termination outside with a proper hood.

Week 6–7: Glass, Paint & Punch List

  • Measure/install shower glass (often 7–10 business days from template).
  • Paint, caulk, final tune-ups, and clean.

We’ll show you how each decision affects sequence & downtime, and we’ll keep a functioning bath available when possible.

Section 5: Materials That Perform (and Photograph Well)

Waterproofing System (non-negotiable)

Tile is not waterproof; the substrate is. We install a tested system (e.g., sheet membrane or liquid membrane) that integrates with the drain, curb, bench, and niche. For curbless, we plan joist notching or a pre-sloped pan and verify deflection.

Tile (floor/wall)
  • Porcelain for floors & wet walls (dense, durable).
  • Mosaic on shower floors (grip + slope conformity).
  • Large format on walls for fewer grout lines (confirm wall flatness first).
  • Natural stone looks incredible; use in lower-splash zones or seal appropriately; consider porcelain look-alikes in heavy-water areas.

Layout matters: We align grout lines with niche edges, valve centers, and sightlines. Tight, consistent joints (and caulk at planes) are the difference between “fine” and “custom.”

Glass
  • Fixed panel + door or walk-in with one large fixed panel (less hardware).
  • Low-iron for clearer color read.
  • Smart slope on sills and knee walls to shed water inward.
Vanities & Tops
  • Furniture-style or wall-hung for an airy feel.
  • Quartz tops are durable; marble is beautiful, but it can patina or be placed away from the splash zone.
  • Drawers beat doors for daily use; add U-shaped top drawers to dodge plumbing.
Fixtures & Metals
  • Choose one hero metal (polished nickel, chrome, or unlacquered/aged brass) and commit to it. Mixing three finishes adds visual noise.
  • Pressure-balance or thermostatic valve? Thermostatic = finer control and future-proofs your system.
Heat & Comfort
  • Radiant floor heat (electric) makes winter mornings amazing; pair it with a programmable Wi-Fi-enabled thermostat.
  • Towel warmers add a hotel feel and help dry towels faster.
Ventilation (silent & strong)
  • Properly sized quiet fan (sone/CFM rated) ducted outdoors.
  • Connect to a timer/humidity sensor. Moisture control is your grout’s best friend.

Section 6: Storage & Organization (Calm Outside, Serious Inside)

  • Recessed niches sized to bottles (check height with your tallest shampoo).
  • Vanity drawers with organizers; a tall linen cabinet if you have the width.
  • Medicine cabinets (recessed, mirrored inside) keep counters clear.
  • Hooks for robes; double bars for towels in a small room.

We’ll inventory what you store now (hair tools, extra TP, meds, skincare) and build storage around that list so the bath stays clean with zero effort.

Section 7: Design Details People Notice

  • Sightlines: Center mirrors & lights on the faucet/drain; align niche edges with grout lines.
  • Lighting: Overhead + sconce pairs at face height; 2700–3000K color for warm skin tones.
  • Mirrors: Recessed medicine cabinets or framed mirrors at the proper height.
  • Thresholds: Low or curbless where feasible; slope, slope, slope.
  • Baseboards: Tile base with a tiny shadow gap looks elevated and handles mop splashes.

Section 8: Common Mistakes (and Easy Fixes)

  1. Skipping waterproofing behind the tile → leaks later.
  2. No movement joints at plane changes → cracked grout.
  3. Under-sized fan or vented to attic → mold & flaking paint.
  4. No blocking for future grab bars → ripped walls later.
  5. Random metals → visual clutter.
  6. Low vanity lighting → shadows on faces; set sconce center ~60–66” AFF.

Section 9: CT Winter Considerations (December–February)

  • Pipe-freeze risk in exterior walls; bring supply lines indoors when possible.
  • Heated floors take the bite out of stone/porcelain.
  • Sealants/adhesives cure more slowly in the cold; plan for manufacturer-cure times before using the room-hard.

FAQs

How long will I be without a shower?

For a pull-and-replace tub/shower, often 5–10 days; curbless + custom glass typically 2–3+ weeks (glass lead time). We’ll phase it if possible.

Do I need a permit for a pull-and-replace?

If locations and circuits don’t change, some towns don’t require permits; confirm locally. Any new plumbing/electrical/venting typically requires permits.

Is marble okay in showers?

Yes, with correct substrate, sealing, and maintenance. For minimal care, porcelain marble-look tiles are fantastic.

What’s the ROI?

Well-executed baths hold value: practical layouts, bright lighting, heated floors, and a clean install show up in photos and appraisals.

Our Bathroom Process (Fast, Clean, Professional)

  1. Consult & Free Quote: Photos/measurements → options, material guidance, and budget tiers.
  2. Plan & Order: Layout, selections, permits, and schedule.
  3. Build & Install: Dust control, waterproofing, tile, trim, glass, tight reveals, and clean lines.
  4. Walkthrough: We set dimmers/timers, seal stone, and share care tips.

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